The bookend years of 1834 and 1902 contain the life of one John Wesley Powell. John Wesley was born into a large family in rural Ohio. His father was an itinerate preacher and long convinced that his eldest son would follow in his footsteps.
One could not chart John Wesley’s life as circumstances controlled his every move. His parents were abolitionists, and he followed the same belief as his parents, John Wesley felt the brunt of his belief as he was beaten and stoned by his classmates early in his childhood education. His mother refused to allow her son to return to school following his beating and stoning. But that didn’t stop John Wesley from learning. Enter George Crookham (a/k/a Big George).
Big George was a naturalist of sorts and was willing to teach young John Wesley. Often, he would sit and listen to Big George as he described the wonders of nature. Big George would loan books and other study materials to John Wesley but unfortunately, his father disapproved. He believed that John Wesley was destined to be a pastor like himself. But John Wesley pursued his interest in learning, particularly wandering through nature and examining everything from grasses and insects to clams and shells.
Hostility continued to follow John Wesley. As the oldest of three boys and his father gone over long periods of time, John Wesley became the keeper of the family farm. The anti-abolitionists were often times violent and burned crops in the field and homes of suspected abolitionists. These troubling times caused the Powell family to sell their farm in Ohio and move to Wisconsin. Now 12 years of age, John Wesley continued his farm duties in their new setting. As learning was his intrigue, he continued to learn from books and other materials sent by Big George. After a short time in Wisconsin, they moved again to Illinois.
John Wesley, now 17, continued to shun his father’s wishes about studying to become a pastor. He was adamant to pursue his science interests. Even though informally educated, he was able to land a teaching position in a one-room schoolhouse. His education and studies now included Greek and Latin, mathematics, and all sorts of sciences. He often explored the rivers of central United States as he collected specimens from St. Paul, Minnesota to the Gulf of Mexico.
John Wesley’s life changed in two ways. First, he met and fell in love with Emma Dean from Michigan and second, civil unrest peaked in the United States with Civil War breaking out in early 1861. As an abolitionist, John Wesley quickly enlisted in the Army of the North. His tour of duty was temporarily interrupted by a short leave to marry his beloved Emma Dean in November 1861.
Soldier Powell was also a teacher of sorts in the Army. He was an instructor on how to fire cannons. John Wesley’s artillery regiment was quickly assigned to what was called one of the bloodiest battles of the war. It was called Shiloh’s Meeting House. Thousands from both sides died and thousands more injured, including John Wesley.
As leader in the artillery battalion, he raised his arm to signal firing when a small cannon ball struck his right arm. Days later, the infection spread that required amputation below the elbow.
Heath care was not even a term in the 19th century. Medical advances were non-existent. His surgery was without anesthesia as we know it with post-surgical pain excruciating. Emma followed quickly to be at her husband’s side and provide much needed care. John Wesley refused to return home; instead rejoined the troops in their continuing efforts to defeat the armies of the South.
Lt. John Wesley fought with bravery throughout the war, including the 40-day siege of Vicksburg. He was promoted from Lieutenant to Captain, and finally to Major prior to his discharge at the end of the war.
His physical limitation continued to cause issues. He required additional surgery and lost significant weight. But his physical pain was also complicated by his nightmares caused by the killing and suffering he experienced during the war years. (Modern-day PTSD).
The post-war years were an interim step in John Wesley’s life. He returned to teaching at Illinois Wesleyan University. His early experience with Big George and “outdoors” learning transitioned his university position to one of “direct” experiential learning. In 1867, John Wesley and Emma led a group of students on a scientific exploration to collect mineral specimens in Colorado on the eastern side of the Rocky Mountains. Their travel encompassed many different modes of transportation including horseback. Together, they climbed Pikes Peak.
This trip – along with a man named Jack Summer – piqued their interest of further exploration. Jack Summer spoke of the unexplored canyon lands of the Colorado River. As John Wesley listened to the stories of the roaring rapids, his intrigue outweighed the danger that lay ahead. John and his wife returned to Colorado leading a second expedition this time for universities and museums as they collected specimens for study and display. Their explorations now included the west slope of the Rockies where they also met various Indian tribes including the Utes. Their name for John Wesley was “Kapurates” which means, “one arm off.”
The Utes assisted the Powells in exploring the Grand River (the upper Colorado River) and northward to the Yampa River and the Uinta Mountains. John Wesley’s ambition was to continue this exploration of the Colorado and the canyons but was very costly. Rejection by government funding sources did not deter his ambition of exploration. Personal savings coupled with some outside funding from museums and other donations led to this great exploration campaign of Uncharted Waters.
John Wesley designed four boats that would be used in the expedition. Three were larger and would carry their supplies and equipment. The fourth was lighter and was to lead the other larger boats in their journey. The lead boat was called the Emma Dean. The boats were constructed in Chicago and then shipped to Green River City, Wyoming Territory where their journey was scheduled to begin. The expedition with nine additional men, including his younger brother Walter, was designed to last ten months.
A flagging system was used by Major Powell to signal the three heavier boats following his lead. Flagging left and right signaled direction while flagging down signaled that landing was necessary due to impending danger. All was well for some miles following their departure since the upper portion of the Green River was much shallower. But danger quickly followed as their passage became dark and more narrow. John Wesley signaled danger ahead and for all to land, but the No Name boat missed the signal and was caught in the roiling waters causing the three inhabitants to be thrown into the rushing waters with their boat and its vast supplies lost. No one drowned but the major loss of the boat and its contents would cause their ten-month trip design to change.
After Disaster Falls (so named for the incident), John Wesley and his associates were more cautious. Frequent stops were required to portage around rapids. Unloading and re-loading the two remaining supply boats was tedious and often caused injury to the crew. As such, some grumbled and became dismayed. One of the crew decided to remain at an Indian Reservation Agency Office.
On July 3, 1869, the Chicago Tribune reported the tragic end of the expedition by drowning. While untrue, the news traveled quickly before Emma (Dean) Powell could reverse the false report.
John Wesley was now faced with increasing danger from the canyons and the rushing waters. There would be no more stopping and no possible support from the outside. He said, “We are now ready to start our way down the Great Unknown. . . We have an unknown distance yet to run, an unknown river to explore. What falls there are, we know not; what rocks beset the channel, we know not; what walls rise over the river, we know not.”
John Wesley’s life was compromised in Desolation Canyon as he attempted to climb with only one arm. But his associate, George Bradley, saved him by using his pants as a rope to safety. Now they reached the point of no return. On July 16, 1869, they reached the junction of the Green and Grand Rivers. Following a few days of camping to make repairs, they left and started down the Colorado River.
Rapids were bigger and closer together requiring more portages. The rough waters caused more boat damage with lost equipment and boat bottoms damaged. The food supply was now scant caused in part by constant soaking from the rapids and rushing waters. On July 23, 1869, John Wesley reported the worst rapids ever at Cataract Canyon. By August, their expedition was now a mile below the canyon rim deep into the Grand Canyon. Temperatures ranged from over 100 degrees Fº in the daytime to soaking cold rain at night.
Food was now exhausted except for a few dried apples. What more could happen? On August 28, 1869, they reached Separation Rapid. The now reduced crew pulled their boats to the side and gazed in fright as the falls were the worst they had yet encountered. Men were hungry and exhausted. There was no way out and death seemed imminent. John Wesley searched for paths around the granite cliffs, but none was found. Three of the remaining crew decided to call it quits! John Wesley pleaded with them to continue as their chances of hiking out of the canyons seemed futile and certain death.
After pacing all night, John Wesley decided that they would go on. He said, “To leave the exploration unfinished, to say that there is a part of the canyon which I cannot explore, having already nearly accomplished it, is more than I am willing to acknowledge, and I determine to go on.” As they finished their breakfast in silence, the crew (minus three) charged on, leaving Emma Dean behind for the three deserters in case they changed their minds.
John Wesley and the remaining crew in two boats pushed off into the rushing waters. As soon as practical, they stopped only to fire a rifle shot signaling their safety through Separation Rapid. Never to see the three men again, John Wesley later learned that they were killed by Indians having been mistakenly identified as kidnappers who had taken a young woman from their village.
They were met by a few Mormon men who expected to see them but dead! The previous report of their drowning had spread. Now, the news of their safety reached the outside and John Wesley became a hero. A second expedition was then approved by the U. S. Government (1871) followed by appointments into multiple government positions. Now years later, John Wesley retired from public life having suffered a major defeat by a U. S. Senator and land speculator who saw expansion via the damming of the river.
John Wesley Powell’s life was fraught with multiple trials and tribulations, but he was undaunted in his dream of exploring the unknown. Loss of limb and almost loss of life never seemed to dampen his goal. His wife, Emma Dean, was a lifelong partner and supporter. Today, both rest in Arlington National Cemetery as war hero and bride.
Bibliography:
- Down the Colorado, John Wesley Powell, the One-Armed Explorer: by Deborah Kogan Ray, Frances Foster Books, 2007.
- Beyond the Hundredth Meridian: by Wallace Stegner, Penguin Books, 1992.
- The Exploration of the Colorado River and Its Canyons: by John Wesley Powell, Simon & Brown, 2013.